Krishnanagar Rajbari & Ghurni Clay-Doll Quarter

Krishnanagar, the headquarters of Nadia district on the river Jalangi, is a town of kings, artists and festivals. Its golden age came under Maharaja Krishnachandra Ray (1710–1783) — the most celebrated zamindar-king of 18th-century Bengal, a legendary patron of scholarship, music and the arts, whose court poet Bharatchandra composed the classic 'Annadamangal' and whose court jester Gopal Bhar remains the most beloved comic figure in Bengali folklore. The Krishnanagar Rajbari, the palace of Krishnachandra's dynasty, still stands with its grand gateway, courtyards and thakurdalan. Though time has weathered much of the palace, it comes alive during the famous Barodol Mela and the Rajbari's Durga and Jagaddhatri pujas. Maharaja Krishnachandra is credited with popularising Jagaddhatri Puja itself, and Krishnanagar's Jagaddhatri festival — with the towering deity 'Buri Maa' — remains one of Bengal's great celebrations. Krishnanagar's other glory is Ghurni, the clay-modellers' quarter. Settled by Maharaja Krishnachandra, the potters of Ghurni developed the art of realistic clay figures — farmers, fishermen, musicians, gods and portraits so lifelike they astonished Europe; Ghurni figurines won medals in international exhibitions from London to Paris in the 19th century. Watching the artists at work in their studios, and buying a signature clay figure, is the highlight of any visit. Add the town's famous sweet — sarpuria and sarbhaja, created here — and Krishnanagar makes a rich cultural stop en route to Mayapur, 20 km away.