Khoshbagh – Tomb of Siraj-ud-Daulah

Khoshbagh — the 'Garden of Happiness' — is the serene garden cemetery of the Nawabs of the Afshar line, lying on the western bank of the Bhagirathi river opposite Lalbagh, Murshidabad. Reached by a short country-boat crossing of the river followed by a pleasant walk or toto ride, it is one of the most moving historical sites in Bengal. Here, within a walled Mughal-style garden of roses and mango trees, sleeps Nawab Siraj-ud-Daulah — the last independent Nawab of Bengal — who was betrayed by his own commander Mir Jafar at the Battle of Plassey on 23 June 1757, and murdered soon after at the age of just 24. His grave lies beside that of his grandfather Nawab Alivardi Khan, who had built this garden, along with Alivardi's mother, Siraj's beloved wife Lutfunnisa Begum, and other members of the family — 34 graves in all. Lutfunnisa's story adds to the poignancy of Khoshbagh: after Siraj's death she refused offers of marriage from the new rulers and spent the rest of her life here in the garden, tending her husband's grave and lighting lamps upon it every evening until she died, and was buried at his feet. The simple flat-roofed tomb chamber, the small mosque where Siraj is said to have prayed, and the quiet garden — in stark contrast to the pomp of Hazarduari across the river — leave a deep impression on every visitor. For anyone interested in the story of how Bengal, and India, passed into British hands, Khoshbagh is hallowed ground.